The “Saltos de Moconá” is a series of waterfalls of the river Uruguay, on the border of Argentina and Brazil, accessible from the Argentine province of Misiones at the small town of El Soberbio (more…)



Far less grand than the Iguazú Falls, it was nevertheless the highlight of my trip to Misiones.  Depending on the amount of water coming downriver, the river drops between 10 and 30 meters along a length of almost 3000 meters, forming a series of “horizontal” waterfalls as it were (less water in the river, higher waterfalls). The easiest (the only?) way to see the falls is by boat (“gomón” =  motor-powered life-boat), which can be arranged in the town of El Soberbio.  Our captain took us upriver about 30 kilometers and then got us up very close (about 1 meter, so we all got quite wet) to the falls.

The best part was that we were the only humans there.  We may have disturbed the sunbath of some turtles and scared up a flock of catamarans, but that’s about it. Jungle left and right of the river. Actually, it is a nature reserve both on the Argentine and the Brazilian side, so this paradise will hopefully persist for some time.

The town of El Soberbio is the “national capital of citronella” and other aromatic essences.  Founded in 1946 by a group of men who had bought 64000 hectares at auction, the first crop of citronella was harvested in 1953.  Nowadays, lemon grass, petit grain, mint, tobacco and geraniol are also harvested.  A small museum is run by the grandson of the founder (our captain Carlos-Arturo was the great-grandson of the founder).

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